Buenos Aires
Hey OG,
I hope everything is well. By now I’m assuming you’re well and truly bored by little Willa and I can resume my usual stories to much applause. I’ve been seeing pictures of Claire’s brother Chris holding Willa and it’s not looking good for me earning any best uncle trophies. I’ll have to work double time when I’m back for Christmas. Anyway, more about me.
I’ve had a wonderful week experiencing Buenos Aires. Since arriving Ive spent more nights out past 12 than the last year combined. It seems although the British did their best to influence colonial Argentina, they couldn’t shake the Mediterranean tendency to consider 10pm the appropriate time for dinner inherited from the Spanish.
It makes sense why nobody wants to sleep here given the amount of caffeine they drink from their arguably ridiculous all day yerba mate (“ma-tay”) ritual. It’s almost comedically absurd how normalised it is to carry around a scuffed up thermos and drink a cup full of grass clippings with a special little straw. Though having both hands occupied with mate supplies does go to explain why they can’t grasp a stable national currency. To be clear my jabs are just projections of my own insecurity that I don’t look true local enough without my own special cup & thermos.
My first late evening was Saturday. Myself, Lauren and some others from our little hostel enjoyed an impassioned tango show. Although Tango to begin with is a bit intimate, this show brought in elements of cabaret, magic and acrobatics to up the drama. Although not the typical Argentine tango, I found its blended boundaries borne of a contemporary iteration on classic tango as romantic art and expression to be very enjoyable.
To embrace the art, a tango lesson for myself had been on my radar since arriving in BA. La Viruta a popular tango club which ran beginner friendly lessons before their routine shows was recommended to me. Unfortunately Lauren isn’t one for dancing so I was left to myself for this.
Of all I’ve done this trip, amidst the dangers & warnings forcast for Latin America, nothing compares to how nerve-racking it was walking to La Viruta. The few anxious minutes waiting for the lessons to begin invited every outlandish scenario of embarrassment into my imagination. Of course, nothing of the like happened and instead I joined all the other beginners and had a wonderful time trotting around awkwardly trying to follow the music.
Although I can’t guarantee my form was any good, the comfort zone pushing satisfaction of going and trying my best left me happy with my night out. I don’t yet have the courage to ask someone from the crowd to dance, but maybe in time I’ll overcome that fear as well.
I want to do more dancing in the future. It’s something that’s interested me for a while. The intricate dialog of body language requires confidence, coordination and trust in your equal partner. That alone is as difficult if not more than the cardio involves in the steps themselves.
It’s been a wonderful week for food here in BA. To continue walking your steps, I’ve found my local pasta shop, a spot called Felicies Pastas where I picked up some fresh egg fettuccini for dinners this week. You and I see eye to eye on the wonders of fresh pasta. I’ve also enjoyed at least one medialuna, the local pastry of choice with my coffee every morning.
But my culinary highlight of the week was an asado night last Sunday. Although I’m sure you’ll know given your time here, for others reading, asado is the name given to the Argentine BBQ tradition. Lots of wood fired meat, wine, music, friends and family. By chance some friends I met in Mexico are also in BA right now and invited me to a culinary experience offered by some local blokes who share asado culture with tourists.
In total there were 8 courses we had to get through. To start we had the staple Argentine sandwich choripán with chorizo made at home by the hosts. From there we cruised the farm eating from ribs to flank. A range of Argentine wines were offered as pairings, my favourite of which were the Mendoza reds. I was vindicated in fasting the entire day beforehand; even on an empty stomach I barely finished what was on my plate. The night ended with dulce de leche ice cream and some Argentinian music performed by the hosts.
There’s plenty more I’ve been up to this week but I’ll save spare you the words and write about that another time. I hope you’ve had a good week. Let me know what you’ve been up to.
Lots of love,
Dan
Thanks Dan. Glad that BA is delivering, especially on the food scene. And good on you for trying the tango. I’m impressed with your level of comfort zone pushing. It’s started raining here again and so we’re in for another wet weekend. Shortest day of the year yesterday so we’ve hit the longest night and days will get longer now. Bring on Summer!! Love you lots. Xx Mum.